Everything you should know about in Miami for Art Basel week and beyond

A Miami guide from a born and raised South Florida kid and a (now) Miami local

Fun fact: I’m proud to be a South Florida kid. As much as I was eager to leave the Sunshine State and go to NYU at 18 years old, I look back on my childhood here and realize how special it was being from a place that’s, generally, pretty random. In my entire 12 years of living in New York, not one person guessed I was from Florida. In fact, I mostly encountered surprise and confusion, followed by the classic: “my grandparents [or enter some relative] live there!”

When you say South Florida, most people assume/conjure up images of Miami. I’m not from Miami. I’m from a tiny town between Fort Lauderdale and Boca Raton called Lighthouse Point. It’s as idyllic as it sounds. It’s a town entirely on canals / the Intercoastal, and yes I’m still best friends with all my childhood neighbors since we were two years old.

Much to my surprise, two and a half years ago I moved back down to South Florida, but this time it was a city I never lived in: Miami. Ever since I met my husband 10 years ago, we’ve been coming down to Florida for most of December for Art Basel and to celebrate the holidays with our families. We love it so much, that even before we moved here we planned our wedding in the Magic City. We got married at The Edition in 2021— it was supposed to be a 2020 wedding— but you already know how that story goes.

All of this is to say that I’m a proud ambassador for the state whose main claim to fame is ‘Florida Man.’

Miami was always a great city, and it’s changed a lot since I moved here in ‘21. It’s exploded at the seems in seemingly every way possible. Between Major Food Group opening up a Miami outpost to all their NY classic spots, to the sheer number of incredible humans who have moved down here the last three years, Miami has an energy and community that could not be more perfect during this season of life (read: my thirties).

With that, and because it’s Basel week, I wanted to share a few of my current favorite spots here with some very specific recommendations on a few.

Ps. Note that there are a ton of sponsored events and invite-only parties happening every minute this week, but I figured that’s less helpful if you A. already have those on your personal schedule and, B. maybe we’re both not invited ;) Vanity Fair’s Nate Freeman did a near-perfect piece on ‘the Basel of it all’ that’s essential reading.

Enjoy! And if you’re down here, please feel free to DM me if you need any guidance.

Category I: The Food

Boia De — This is my favorite restaurant overall in Miami. Chef Alex is so talented. It’s a Michelin star spot but it’s next to a laundry mat. It’s not the easiest to get a reservation, so set a Resy notification and you may get lucky. Order 2x the Luci Chopped salad (it’s the best salad I’ve ever had), the white truffle tagliatelle, and the lamb ribs. End the evening with their crispy tiramisu. You’re welcome.

Walrus Rodeo — The second restaurant from the team at Boia De, it’s relatively easier to get a reservation as it’s a larger space. It’s all about the ‘za here without being a “pizza” spot. Order the carrot tartare, the cabbage carbonara, the potato gnocchi, the rodeo za, and ask for the off-menu ‘green’ lasagna.

La Natural  — My other favorite spot in the neighborhood (that neighborhood being Little River, where Boia De and Walrus are too) is La Natural. It’s a natural wine and pizza spot and everything on the menu is delicious. You must get the white sauce, scallions, szechaun peppercorn pizza. I dream about it. The menu changes quite a bit, but other favorites if they’re on there: charred eggplant, rigatoni (it’s the only al dente pasta I’ve had in Miami), the Japanese sweet potato, the papaya dish, and the onion ricotta situation with a side of the focaccia.

Maty's — A new-ish spot in midtown that was just awarded Bon Appetite's 24 best new restaurants in America. Pretty major! Chef Valerie Change Cumpa is a queen who is giving us a fresh take on Peruvian food. High praise for the oysters, the Hokkaido scallop, the choclo, the dorade, and the picarones.

Peel — Time to mix it up with a sweet treat! A magical banana-based soft serve. It’s non-dairy, no added sugar, and just two ingredients. You can eat this treat for breakfast, lunch, or dessert. The owner Valeria is a gem with a vision: she takes perfectly edible but slightly bruised bananas that would otherwise become food waste and turns them into the creamiest soft serve in the land. Their location in Miami Shores is special (going there in the afternoons reminds me of going to TCBY after school with my mom, but like, the way better, healthier 2023 version of that). Bonus that it’s across the street from Sobremesa, a great natural wine store. If you can’t make it to Miami Shores this trip, Peel will also have their soft-serve truck going around Miami all week! Follow them on IG to follow the adventures of the truck.

Carbone — Now back to our heavier meal programming (we needed that little treat break). Carbone will always deliver. Just go into it with your metaphorical Major Food Group hat on (aka you’re gonna get a dash of Vegas hospitality) and go for the ride. You won’t find the pasta al dente here, but otherwise, everything is delicious. I love that we have a Carbone in this city. Also, a pro tip for my gluten-free fam out there you can crush this menu gluten-free! Get the Caesar croutons on the side (although if you do eat gluten, they’re buttery pillows from heaven), they have gluten-free versions of the pasta (you’re there for the sauce anyway), the Bass Allison, the Ribeye Diana, and the Dover sole can all be done perfectly gluten-free. Oh, and most importantly, if you’re a martini person, you must get the Gibson martini. They make the cocktail onions in-house and marinate them in rosemary. I prefer a Gibson as I’m always in it for the onions. Second Carbone pro tip: if you want the lasagna, you have to email them in advance to reserve one. It’s worth it, but only if you have a large party or plan to have leftovers later.

Mandolin — A classic spot, you'll see everyone in town from Europe here throughout the week. The quality of the produce is 10/10. It’s my favorite Greek salad in the States.

The Surf Club / Four Seasons — Champagne Bar at Surf Club is perfect for drinks and catching up with friends in town who are staying in North Beach. An iconic Miami spot with Palm Beach vibes. If you go to the restaurant, the Dover Sole is also pretty wonderful here too.

Tam Tam — For a completely hard shift from Surf Club, Tam Tam is a gem of a Vietnamese spot in Downtown Miami. It’s lowkey, delicious, and fun. Go to the second bathroom when you're there, just trust you’ll have a time. Big fan of the Tam Tam wings, the tamarind glazed pork ribs, and the shimeji mushroom.

Pastis — I'm going on the record saying it's better than the current NYC one. They really dialed the indoor/outdoor vibe and the food is consistent. Oysters, Escargots, Steak Frites, a chicken Paillard, and a side of pomme frites and you’re good to go.

Lucali — If you haven’t made it to this iconic Brooklyn spot yet, I recommend checking out the Sunset Harbor location. This place was the place when everyone from NY moved here a few years ago. It’s mellowed out but it’s still great. Go for the pies.

ZZ’s — This is a members club by the Major Food Group team but one of my favorite spaces in Miami. They just opened a new large room and bar here which should be very active during Art Basel week. If you have a friend who’s a member or has a res, try to join.

Macchialina — My favorite Italian spot on the beach. Consistent, cozy. For all the ALL CAPS Italian spots that have come from New York (we see you Carbone, Rao’s) this is a proper local spot is a quieter gem that delivers every time.

Caracas Bakery — Back to my side of Miami for a minute (I’m biased for the mainland), but Caracas is my favorite bakery in Miami. All the pastries are incredible and the broccoli sandwich is a 10/10. Bonus that Joe Jonas spottings happen often.

El Bagel — If you need your bagel fix while in Miami, this place gives you the level of a great NYC bagel. I know that’s a hard sell but just try it and trust.

Category II: The Fairs

Design Miami — This is hands down my favorite of all of the fairs. The most dreamy furniture and design objects. It’s the first fair I go to.

Art Basel Miami Beach — The main fair at the convention center. If you can only make it to one fair and want to experience the Basel of it all, then this is the fair. Bonus that you’ll see some pieces from established artists you don't always get to see on display from blue-chip galleries.

Untitled — The fair where I might go home with a piece. Incredible works and galleries that are more within budget if you’re beginning to collect. It's my favorite one to walk around with my husband and talk about what we like and may want to live with.

Art Miami — This fair is also a great place to start if you’re starting to collect. The fair itself can be a bit overwhelming with so many booths, but you can cover a lot of ground and discover a ton of art.

Scope — On the beach, always a favorite fair. A lot of experiential and discovery.

Category III: The Museums / Institutions

Bass Museum — One of my favorite museums in Miami, it’s a quick spot to go if you don’t have a ton of time but want to get one museum in. It’s also located in the thick of it all on the beach. Pop by to check out their current exhibitions by Hernan Bas, Anne Duk Hee Jordan, and Etel Adnan.

ICA (Institute of Contemporary Art) — This museum is in the Design District and is manageable to fully walk through in an hour. Their opening party is on December 5th and always a blast in the garden. Exhibitions on view include debut solo museum presentations for Sasha Gordon, Ahmed Morsi, and Tau Lewis. Also, their museum store has some well-curated, whimsical finds.

The Perez Museum— The must-see show everyone’s been talking about: Gary Simmons Public Enemy. It opens on December 5th as well.

De La Cruz Collection — An incredible private collection open to the public. Worth swinging by.

Margulies Collection at The Warehouse —  A non-profit institution located in a 50,000-square-foot retro-fitted warehouse in Wynwood.

Rubell Museum — A beautiful collection and space with both emerging and very established work like Kuasma’s Infinity Rooms and Narcissus Garden.

Go See: Topography of Memory is Sallisa Rosa’s debut solo exhibition in the U.S. and her first-ever ceramic installation. The work is an immersive exploration of memory and space, and it will travel to São Paulo after debuting in Miami at the Collins Park Rotunda.

Go See: Alex Israel's Snow Beach Frozen Treats is also an immersive installation, it’s his reinterpretation of a frozen yogurt store on the beach.

Category IV: The Shopping

Design District — I’m biased because I live within walking distance, but they’ve really created something special in Design. Yes, you have all the designer stores that you can get in any major city, but Craig Robins, the creator of the district, has given them all free creative rein on the architecture and design. Fun fact: this is the first ever Bottega store that former Creative Director Daniel Lee fully designed in his vision. From the pink marble sand spiral staircase to the handles on each door, it really hits different than the Bottega stores in other cities. Each store is a work of art in itself. Go play. Ps. There’s a fun Madhappy pop-up in Design District as well. Limited-edition merch and a cool set up. Go check it out.

Bal Harbor — A great activity for yourArt Basel warm-up or cool-down. Spend an afternoon walking around all the Bal Harbor shops and having lunch at Le Zoo, Aba, or Hillstone (classic Florida kid spot). I love The Webster and Books & Books for some of my favorite Miami-born stores.

Curio at Faena — Across the street from Faena you’ll find fun, unique pieces that are perfect for this week.

Category V: The Late Nights

Miami Sound Bar — They have Despacio-level MacIntosh sound equipment at this a hi-fi records-only spot. Great drinks, and even better music.

Dante's Hi Fi — Another fun hi-fi bar in Wynwood.

Medium Cool — This place has become the spot for all my single guy friends this year. It can be a bit of a scene depending on when you go, but it’s always a good crowd.

The Edition — Downstairs is classic Miami. There’s bowling and ice skating and great music, all set to Olivia Steele’s neon pieces. I’m biased because we rented out the whole bottom floor for our wedding after-party and danced until 6 am. Great art, fun vibes, central location on the beach.

Mila Lounge — This members club and a full scene with a dress code but it’s fun and a stunning space. Find a friend who’s a member and hang out on the 2nd floor with a great DJ and drinks. Pro tip: they have a hidden omakase bar you’ll have to book in advance. It’s worth it.

Do Not Sit — My favorite place to dance in Miami. The talent that comes through here is next level for such a tiny venue. We recently saw our favorite Berlin DJ, Mira, here. To see her in this intimate of a space (vs. a space like BK Mirage or even Burning Man) feels wild. To be 2 feet away from the artist and 12 minutes from home feels like such a life hack when you think about calling an Uber after a night out in Brooklyn. Rodriguez Jr. will be playing at Do Not Sit on Saturday night, December 9th. See you there.

Soho House Tent – The place where everyone inevitably ends up at the end of the night, every night.

Category VI: The Self-Care

Tierra Santa Healing House at Faena — If you have time for a massage, request Shane. He's the best masseuse I've ever worked with. 11/10. The design of this space is beautiful, the hammam (pictured above right) is deeply calming and beautiful.

Amy Peterson — She's the queen of facials and anything you need to look amazing for Art Week and the holidays. She’ll make sure you’re glowing and looking fresh whether you do a peel, light laser, or a her ‘magic hands’ facial.

Sana Skin Studio — One of my favorite self-care spots in Miami, pop in for a facial and your clean beauty favorites. The founder Valen’s curation is dialed.

The Standard — My favorite spa in Miami, no question. They recently re-did it and it’s a little slice of heaven. The Standard is also just a great place to hang and post up throughout the week.

Gee Beauty — The spot in Sunset Harbor for beauty services. Pickup your luxury makeup favorites or any beauty items you need (including Crown Affair dry shampoo and core products :) if you need a refresh.

Studio Raupo — Need a great hair cut or style? Wendy and her team at Studio Raupo are it in Miami. 

Vanity Projects — My favorite place to get my nails done. In Design District you can shop and check out the art installations before or after your appointment. Ask for Stephanie, she's the best.  

Pilates — Tremble or Jetset are favorites for a more modern take on Pilates. They have locations all over Miami.

Yoga — Mimi yoga in Wynwood or Modo in Sunset Harbor are favorites with the locals.

Have fun this week. And take care, always.

Dianna